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How are waves formed?

The movement of sun and moon, which causes winds, results in waves. This explains what causes waves in the water. The wind provides the energy to the water, which results into waves. A wave is mostly the up-and-down movement of water particles. The movement passes on toward the shore, but not the particles of water. For e.g. if you have a rope you can send a kind of wave along the rope. The up-and ­down movement passes along the rope, but not the particles of the rope. As the bottom of a water wave strikes the ground a short distance from the beach, it slows up because of friction. The top keeps going, and then topples over, and thus forms a "breaker." In the wave, the water particles move in a circular path, as they are pushed by the wind, i.e. up and forward.

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